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The Indian Textile Industry

We take pride that our nation is one of the oldest manufacturing countries in the world. We are people who cultivated cotton from our vast fertile plains and weaved our own silk using the spinning wheel. While the Mauryas made the Gangetic plains the major textile manufacturing center, the Cholas aimed for the skies and took silk export across oceans. If India in the 3rd century BCE already set up its own established silk trade, then it's no surprise that in 2022, we’re the 6th largest exporter of textiles in the world. 


It is true! This industry directly/indirectly employs about 4 crore people and single-handedly generates 1/3rd of the export revenue. Statistically, it contributes to 2% of India's GDP and is looking at yet another amazing year after a successful 2022. 


So, what made 2022, the year that became a milestone? Let's discuss the key impacts of technology - the reason behind the nation's magnificent feat. 


2022 - Year of the Highest-ever textile exports in India


The Indian Textile industry: 1   Pandemic: 0


The pandemic truly had nothing on this industry and there was a clear winner at the end. This is because the textile business is self-sustaining and there is still enormous scope for growth. 


Globally, India is in the top 5 exporters of home textiles, filament yarn, natural fiber, and woven fabric. Our strength comes from the large raw material base and the availability of skilled manpower in an ever-growing domestic market.  


The mill sector is the second largest in the world, which also owes its success to technology. India owns about 3400 textile mills that include a massive total of 50 million spindles and over 8.4 million rotors. These composite textile mills comprise of 3 important steps in the manufacture of garments: spinning, weaving and processing - all under one roof. Techniques like air-jet weaving and rapier weaving with the help of advanced machinery have catapulted productivity to greater levels.


Our exports saw an overall growth of 49% by June 2022, a giant leap that set a new record. The major sectors that showed improvements are cotton textiles, readymade textiles, and handicrafts. The exports saw a huge hike to regions like the USA, Bangladesh, UAE, and EU.


Technological Advancements Spearheading the Industry


Sustainable Fabrics: 


  • In a growing trend towards sustainable and ethical fashion, one area that has seen significant development in our nation is the production of eco-friendly alternatives to traditional leather. Plant-based materials such as Pinatex, Mycelium, orange fiber, coffee ground fiber, and banana fiber have become great alternatives to leather.


  • Pinatex is made from pineapple leaves, while Mycelium is derived from mushrooms. The increasing production of these natural fibers greatly reduces the environmental footprint and a great way to tread towards a sustainable future. 


  • Another great initiative in the Indian textile industry is the usage of techniques such as "digital printing" and "air dyeing / CO2 dyeing" instead of traditional dyeing of clothes. These techniques ensure minimal water usage and prevent contamination of the surroundings. Investments from big companies are already pouring in for "air dyeing" and this is expected to make new tides in the coming years. 


Antiviral Textile: 


This is a new technology fabric that boasts anti-viral properties. The revolutionary fabric is claimed to be the first of its kind that can effectively combat the coronavirus.


The technology involves the application of a special chemical to the fabric which makes it resistant to viral particles and can be used for a variety of clothing items, including shirts, suits etc. The introduction of this technology was a much-needed solution, especially in these unprecedented times. 


Technical Textiles: 


Here is a category of textiles that are primarily designed for their functional properties rather than their aesthetic appeal. These fabrics are durable, economical and sustainable. Therefore, its growing demand has led to a surge in the production of technical textiles worldwide, with the Indian government being one of the key supporters of this sector.


Our country is already taking significant steps towards maximizing the potential of technical textiles as it can not only boost the economy but also promote innovation and advancement in the textile industry. Head over to Rasvriti to check out some of the most gorgeous sarees in the country, made by home-grown artisans.

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Ugadi - New Beginnings, Newer Sarees

As the sun peeps out on the 1st day of the Hindu Lunisolar calendar in Andhra Pradesh, Telangana, and Karnataka, scenes of people having purifying oil baths, women donning exquisite silk sarees, and aromas of Pachadi, Bevu Bella, and Mavinakayi Chitranna wafting through households behold us with awe.


Significance of Ugadi


Ugadi marks the arrival of the new year and the birth of the Spring season. ‘Yuga’ (i.e. age/period) and ‘Adi’ (meaning beginning) combine to form Ugadi, and is said to be the day Lord Brahma created the universe.


The day also holds an astronomical significance in that it is the starting day from which the earth receives maximum sunlight for 21 days straight. For the crowd that believes in Yugas, Ugadi marks the beginning of Kaliyug, or the day when Lord Krishna began his Nirvana.


Celebrations During Ugadi


The festivities on Ugadi in South India are usually brimming with enthusiasm, religious humility, and camaraderie among people. People adorn their homes with rangoli, flowers, and toran (a decorative hanging fixture made of paper mango leaves) and savour delectable recipes like Bele Holige, Kosambari, and Bonda.


For the deeply religious, paying a visit to the nearby temple and offering prayers to God is a must-do for the Ugadi checklist. It’s also not uncommon to find people going over to neighbouring and relatives’ homes with sweets and smiles to ring in the new year!


Dressing Up on Ugadi


The days leading up to Ugadi can be quite a dress-shopping extravaganza. Kanjivaram, Banarasi, and Mysore silk sarees are some of the choicest and colourful types that women embrace during the fanfare. You can also find men dressing up in regal and traditional dhotis, angavastrams, and kurta-pyjamas.


If you haven’t already, it’s time to spruce up your saree wardrobe with uber-elegant Kanchipuram silk sarees that blend finesse and heritage into your style. These handcrafted sarees that come in spring hues of bright red, daffodil yellow, and tangerine orange are guaranteed to take your Ugadi look to a whole new level. When paired with mildly glamorous gold jewellery, these sarees can be the life of Ugadi celebrations.


Women who appreciate fine work on sarees like intricate floral and foliate motifs can bring a bouquet-full of grace through Banarasi silk weaves. The zari woven into Banarasi sarees are second to none, with Kalga and Bel motifs dominating the design. Regarded as some of the most ethnic and gorgeous festive wear in the south, Banarasi sarees are a great option for the upcoming Ugadi celebrations.


Gadwal, Pochampally, and Uppada weaves are also quite popular among sarees connoisseurs in Andhra and Telangana for Ugadi. While Gadwals are characterised by their gold-and-silver zaris and a light-as-feather feel, Pochampally Ikat sarees have a smooth texture and sport elaborate geometric patterns. Weavers painstakingly work for 2-3 weeks to make one Uppada Jamdani saree, which is uber-soft, woven from silk and pure lace, and contains geometric patterns, flowers, and leaves designs.


A recent fashion trend that has captured onlookers during Ugadi is the popular use of salwar kameez. Whether you deck up in a dazzling embroidered kurta and plain dupatta or rock a flowing Tussar salwar with a complementing coloured dupatta, you can style up without a second thought in this attire on this auspicious day.


Wrapping Up, Literally


It is imperative to celebrate this festival of spring with lots of prayers, happiness, and style. Embrace new beginnings on Ugadi with a la mode Rasvriti sarees, from the house of Tulsi. Here you can find handwoven Kanchipuram, Banarasi, and Tussar sarees that can make eyes turn instantaneously. Head over to explore our breathtaking collections.

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Evolution of Sarees in South Indian Weddings

Ever witnessed a south Indian bride making her first entrance and the undeniable smile she puts on the groom's face? It reminds of these lines,


"Thulaa thottil unnai vaithu

Nigar seiya ponnai veithaal

Thulaabaaram thorkaatho

Perazhagae… "  


Loosely translating to - Even gold seems invalid when compared to your beauty!


And as she enters, suddenly the lights, flowers, and the sound of nadhaswaram, all seem to fade away. Her smile stays gracious, and her face reflects off the colors she chose to wear. The texture of her silk, the prints, and the seamless zari, everything blends as one with her. She looks like a goddess and such is the craftsmanship, heritage, and years of improvisation behind the making of her bridal drape. Let's talk about this story of the bride, and how her bridal saree evolved through the years to meet her on her beautiful day.


6 Yards of Love - The Origin Story 

 

It all started around the 5th millennium BC when cotton was weaved to create a long robe-like fabric for women to drape. Its origin goes back to the Indus Valley civilization. Talking about humble beginnings, our saree has seen it all! 


The Indian weavers then began to use lac, indigo, and turmeric as dyes while industrialization paved the way for synthetic and chemical dyes along with new printing techniques that were earlier unexplored. With the boom of silk exports, regional handloom silks such as the Banarasi, Paithani, Kanjeevaram, Chanderi, Maheshwari, etc. became unstoppable. The inclusion of various stones and precious threads like gold/silver, as we see in today's bridal sarees was the result of the rich making these changes during British rule. Since then, it has been quite a journey for the saree to become the marvel it is today. 


Significance of the Bridal Kanjeevaram Pattu 

 

Originating from the temple town of Kanchipuram, this pure mulberry silk is woven into heavenly eternal sarees that eventually become a family heirloom due to its incredible material strength and quality. 


The yarn that is first dipped in rice water and sun-dried is then weaved into interlocking metallic yarns such as gold and silver that become the "Zari" part of a saree. Depending on the zari-type and the motif design, these sarees are categorized into 4 different types. 


  • Plain Kanjeevaram with golden zari
  • Temple border Kanjeevaram with zigzag zari design
  • Traditional Kanjeevaram that follows checkered design for its body, and motif designs predominantly being mangoes, coins, chakra, etc. 
  • Modern Kanjeevaram silk with a contemporary twist in border designs, material texture and motifs.


How different is a modern-day bridal saree? 


With the lockdowns finally over, the Indian wedding industry's been bustling and the bridegrooms are getting more experimental with their creative choices. 


The millennial brides show more confidence in dressing up in the way it best represents their inner personality. Hence, they are now bolder, more stylish yet culturally rooted. Let’s look at the top few trends that South brides have happily embraced in recent times: 


  • Muted Kanjeevarams 


Absolutely dominating the wedding scene is the surprisingly serene and muted, gold-toned Kanjeevarams that are lightweight, and elegantly body hugging. This fully-worked, pure-soft silk saree has a brocade body with a comparatively simple zari or no zari at all. Paired with the same coloured blouse and designer chokers, this new style allows the bride to shine the most and is a true testament to her beauty. 


  • Heritage weaves from the other states 


Cross cultural heritage weaves like Banarasi, Paithani, Chanderi and tissue silk on a South bride makes us believe that there's a saree predestined for every bride. It is as though her name was written on every thread chosen and craftily weaved. These precious handlooms showcasing intricate work and rich zari, contrast along with traditional temple jewellery is simply a match made in heaven for the auspicious ceremony. 


  • Family heirloom for the big day 


South brides are owning with pride, the vintage saree that's passed down through the years with deliberate care and compassion, as homage towards their family heritage. The saree’s grandeur and artistic value are undisputedly superior in comparison to the modern day weaves and easily makes the most beautiful bride there is. 


  • Pastels, pink and other soft hues


Minimalism in south Indian weddings is making heads turn and people talk. For the pastels, pinks, ivory and teal are making their way into the bridal fit. Daringly adorable are these brides who changed the decades-old narratives with a fresh, subtle and sophisticated approach. These picturesque brides pair up their soft-tinted sarees with diamond polki jewellery that adds all the zing and haute required for the occasion.


If you want to check out the best-in-town collection of Kanchipurams, then head over to Rasvriti for your next draping collectible.

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The Importance Of Kanchipuram Silk in South India

The month of Thai (Makar/Jan 15 to Feb 15) is synonymous with happy things, weddings, and auspiciousness. Other religious ceremonies that are usually not held in the month of Margazhi make a grand return. At such ceremonies, the womenfolk of the families adorn themselves in Kanchivaram silks, the epitome of grace in South Indian textile. These silks are an integral part of any ceremony or festival in the region and feature the traditional 9 yards when it comes to religious occasions and rituals. This blog will explore the significance of Kanchipuram pure silk sarees in the South Indian culture and how it has become an quintessential part of traditional ceremonies over the years.


What is Kanchipuram Silk?


Kanchipuram Silk or Kanjivaram silk is a type of silk fabric handwoven in Tamil Nadu, India, dating back to the Chola dynasty in the 11th century. It has a labour-intensive weaving process that requires great skill and attention to detail and provides employment for numerous people in the region. Weaving involves dyeing raw silk in vivid colours and attaching it to a weaving loom to create traditionally woven sarees, which are heavy but soft with fine counts of silk and embellished with intricate designs inspired by temple architecture, nature, and mythology. In recent years, the popularity of these sarees has spread beyond South India, with people from all over the country and abroad, appreciating their beauty and craftsmanship. Compared to other silks of India such as the Banarasi silk sarees or Tussar silk sarees, the weaving techniques used in creating a Kanjivaram make it comfortable, sturdy and long-lasting.

 

Characteristics of Kanchipuram Silk Sarees


Kanchipuram silk sarees are handwoven with pure silk thread obtained from mulberry silkworms. Zari, a silver silk thread coated in gold colour, is used to add rich finishings to a saree's border and pallu. The weaving process is complex and involves several steps, from spinning the silk yarn to dyeing and weaving the fabric. 


The weaving traditions followed by the weavers of the town of Kanchipuram are unique, and one of the main techniques followed is called Korvai. The techniques used ensure the durability of these sarees and with minimal maintenance, your Kanchivarams can keep its own for a long time. The designs on these sarees have transformed today with embroidery or crystal work done on traditional Kanjivaram sarees and paintings of gods and goddesses in the pallu. 

 

Significance of Kanchipuram Silk in South Indian Culture


This silk has been an integral part of South Indian culture for centuries, and its cultural and religious significance makes it a must-have in any South Indian wardrobe. It’s a symbol of wealth, finesse, and status in India and is a popular choice for traditional ceremonies and special occasions. In weddings down south, it is a sacred symbol of the bride's purity and grace, and is also worn during other ceremonies such as the naming ceremony of a newborn baby, engagements, upanayanams, and religious festivals.

 

Global Recognition of Kanchipuram Silk


Kanchivarams are popular among celebrities in cinema, politics, and business, with a growing number of them using the attire for many occasions - big or small. You’d be surprised to know that international fashion brands such as Chanel, Louis Vuitton, and many other designers have incorporated Kanchivarams into their fashion wear! Designer Alberta Ferretti used the Kanchipuram as a centrepiece for a ball gown he designed. Tod's D bag features intricate zari with leather that valorizes the silk.


The GI tag (Geographical Indication tag) was given to Kanchipuram sarees in 2005 to protect traditional craftsmen and ensure customers get authentic products. However, globalisation has brought opportunities and challenges to the industry, such as competition from cheaper imitations, duplication or adulteration of zari. To preserve the industry's legacy, several efforts have been made to promote and protect the industry.


Kanchipuram silk sarees are an intrinsic part of the culture and tradition of southern India and are a symbol of elegance, beauty, and grace. Rasvriti offers a collection of traditional Kanjivarams that represents resolute craftsmanship and creativity of the weavers. To support the silk industry, we encourage you to check out the collection of Kanchivaram silk sarees online here. Get ready to be dazzled by the gorgeous collections and make your next special occasion one to remember with traditional Kanchivaram sarees.

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RASVRITI - THE STORE

In the heart of the beautiful city of Chennai lies Mylapore - a place known for its rich cultural heritage. Mylapore is special to us for so many reasons, especially because we launched our very first store here. A beautiful view of our exquisite sarees, rich in colours and craft, and an enchanting aroma of freshly brewed filter coffee, will welcome you to our store.


We have a very spacious parking space where multiple cars can be parked without worries. The hustle-bustle of the city is relieved as soon as you enter our quaint lane which leads you to the store. The zen-like tranquil space is the highlight of our store. A positive space harbours positive energy is our thought behind it.


The store is designed to be very customer-friendly and a lot of thought has gone behind the store to make it in a way that it caters to our client's needs. The lighting of the store is placed very mindfully. The clients will be able to see the authentic colours of our clothing in the mirror from any point in the store. The subtle and warm paint in the interior of the store is a very great way to mimic the natural light. Ample of lighting and positive energy among our staff is what makes your every visit here worthwhile. Our store is one which focuses on making each and every visit by our customers a grand experience. This grandeur is achieved with the help of top notch furniture and exquisite sensory elements in the store to name a few.